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London Scene
Best Historic Pubs

Choosing the 'best' of anything is of course a difficult process, and we don't claim that these are necessarily the best London pubs, but they are certainly well worth checking out.

Princess Louise, Holborn

A stones throw from the British Museum, the Princess Louise is a haven of calm and tranquility from the bustle of High Holborn. A Grade II listed building, the Princess Louise is a Victorian gem of cut glass, plaster ceilings, dark wood, and coloured tiling.

On our visit we nestled by the fire, pint in hand, and enjoyed the friendly atmosphere and good hospitality. While the pub food won't have the nearby restaurants quaking in their boots, it was appetising enough. A great little slice of historic pub life.

Location:208 High Holborn, WC1.

Spaniard's Inn, Hampstead

There have been plenty of famous visitors to this old inn on the northern fringes of Hampstead Heath, supping their pints in one of the small, wood-panelled rooms or out back in the ample garden. Notorious highwayman Dick Turpin evaded the law here in the eighteenth century, poets Shelley, Keats, and Lord Byron got poetic after a few, and Charles Dickens was not only a visitor, but mentioned the pub in The Pickwick Papers. A riot in 1780 was even quelled here by the sharp-thinking landlord, who offered the instigators free beer until they were rendered incapable of any action.

Despite the historical connections, the owners of the Spaniards have thankfully not been tempted to 'cash in' and join the tourist trail. True, you'll hear the odd American accent, but this is a pub well worth searching out for its character and excellent location as a post-Heath watering hole, let alone its pedigree.

Location: Spaniards Road, NW3.

The Holly Bush, Hampstead

One of the few London pubs to qualify for the official register of 'Pub Interiors of Outstanding Heritage Interest', the Holly Bush isn't showy about its pedigree - despite being in Hampstead - but rather has a restrained 'Sunday paper and pint' feel to it. Four bars in one (including the one table 'Tavern Bar'), this establishment is a cosy warren of old wood and roaring fireplaces.

Nestled down a quiet Hampstead mews, the Holly Bush is the epitome of the good local boozer - friendly staff, plenty of seating (including outdoors), good (if pricey) food, and of course a good range of liquid refreshments. A slice of what English pub life once was.

Location: 22 Holly Mount, NW3.

The Old Ship, Hammersmith

The Old Ship combines the bright and modern with historical charm, to which is added a winning mix of good food and an even better location. A busy and popular pub, the Old Ship overlooks a quiet stretch of the Thames just west of Hammersmith, and is a short stroll from the ancient Dove establishment.

With a balcony, extensive interior and exterior seating, and a nearby green, there is always a spot to settle down with a beer or glass of wine. The relaxed atmosphere (except around the TV when the sport's on) and food a cut above the average make this a pub lunch destination par excellence.

Location: 25 Upper Mall, W6.

The Dove, Hammersmith

This small pub has entertained drinkers for over 300 years, allowing several generations of locals and visitors the opportunity of keeping an eye on maritime happenings on this stretch of the Thames. The best spot from which to view the rowers and sailors is from the river-edge terrace, but space is limited. The adjacent conservatory also has good views of the river, and the pub interior - with its low-beamed ceilings and cosy wall settles - is hardly 'second best'.

The understated charm of the bar is a positive in this age of 'cashing in on history', and this is an ideal spot to wile away a sunny afternoon. Our visit was diminished only by the lacklustre offerings served up by the kitchen - stick to the liquid refreshments.

Location: 19 Upper Mall, W6.

The Tattershall Castle, Embankment

Location, location, and location are the three best virtues of the Tattershall Castle. There are few simpler pleasures than dozing on this floating pub, watching the Thames lazily drift by, with the ever-turning London Eye and Big Ben as a backdrop, and with a cool pint in hand.

If the activity up on deck gets too much, there are plenty of open spaces and secluded corners below decks to keep all punters happy. There is a restaurant and nightclub within the bowels of the ship as well, but on this visit we didn't sample the food or nightlife - but just enjoyed the wind in our hair and the fantastic view.

Location: Victoria Embankment.

Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, City

One of the better-known historic pubs, dating back to the 1600's. Charles Dickens, Samuel Johnson, and generations of lesser known scribes from Fleet Street have supped here, although tourists are now the main clientele.

The tiny front bar - with log fire and sawdust-strewn fire - is a prime spot.

Location: 145 Fleet Street, EC4.

Blackfriar, City

With a uniquely wedge-shaped exterior, and an even more exceptional interior, the Black Friar is an art nouveau celebration of drinking. Built in 1875 on the site of the medieval Blackfriars Monastery, first-time visitors can be spooked by an occasional and eerie subterranean rumbling that is said to emanate from the old graves of the monks...or perhaps from the nearby Blackfriars Tube even?

Location: 174 Queen Victoria Street, EC4.

Grenadier, Knightsbridge

Located in a cobbled mews, the Grenadier has long military associations - in fact, the Duke of Wellington was a regular, and the pub is said to be haunted by the ghost of one of his soldiers. There's even a sentry box outside, but the pub itself is anything but stuffy and formal.

On our visit we 'pushed the boat out' and ate in the small, living room-like Restaurant, where we had an excellent (albeit pricey) roast lunch. A nice, relaxed spot for a quiet ale - but don't bring a crowd.

Location: 18 Wilton Row, SW1.

Lamb & Flag, Central

A small, ancient pub now nestled down a side street, the Lamb & Flag was formerly known by the less prosaic name of Bucket of Blood. Immortalised by Dickens, a favourite of John Dryden - who was attacked outside by loyalists of Charles II - this places drips history.

The window benches are a great spot from which to people watch.

Location: 33 Rose Street, WC2.

The Flask, Highgate

One of two equally impressive Flask's in this neck of the woods, the Highgate version dates back to 1663.

Reputedly the hiding place for Dick Turpin on one of his many escapes from the law, the cellar and snugs offer comfort and a degree of privacy.

An extensive beer garden makes a summer roast a delight.

Location: 77 Highgate West Hill, N6.

Anchor, Bankside

Few pubs have as much of a history as this small riverside inn. The present building dates from 1770, but a pub has stood here for ten successive centuries. Samuel Johnson wrote part of his famous dictionary here.

Location: 34 Park Street, SE1.

George Inn, Southwark

This sixteenth century pub is owned and preserved by the National Trust. London's only surviving galleried coaching inn, it was once an important staging post for travellers to and from the city.

Location: Borough High Street, SE1.

Trafalgar Tavern, Greenwich

Built in 1837 on the site of an earlier pub, the Trafalgar is a Greenwich institution.

Featured in Dicken's Our Mutual Friend, the pub has attracted its fair share of important visitors, who no doubt enjoyed the impressive views of the Thames, which in more recent times have also included an eyeful of the Dome.

Location: Park Row SE10.

Albion, Islington

Thankfully excluded from the Upper Street crowd, the Albion is a small island of back-street conviviality. With a rustic feel that reflects a history as a 'village' pub until London's growth engulfed it, the Albion has a warm, creaky interior and a cosy beer garden out back.

Location: 10 Thornhill Rd, N1.

Churchill Arms, Kensington High St

A short stroll up past the antique shops on Kensington Church Street brings you to this welcoming local boozer with the fascinating 'junk shop' interior. Walls are covered with all sorts of memorabilia, and the excellent Thai food keeps the punters very well fed.

Location: 119 Kensington Church Street, W8.

More Information

Check out our Haunted Pubs feature or you might like to visit a useful database of pubs in the UK - www.pubs-uk.com - or the Campaign for Real Ale's interesting site.

For a selection of other pubs, click on Historic Pubs or Antipodean Pubs.

     
 
 
 
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