Heart of England
It is sadly true that so many Antipodeans (and - to be fair - Brits as well) seem to believe that Britain starts and finishes in London. Most would of course admit that cities such as Bath and Edinburgh are worth a visit, but far too many head home without exploring Britain's beautiful and interesting countryside.
The Country - as opposed to urban Britain - is a different world; a world of rolling fields, ancient villages, castles and estates, woodland and wildlife. Of course the modern world has encroached to varying degrees in different regions, and the rural idyll can easily be portrayed through rose-tinted glasses. But without doubt, areas such as Sussex and Yorkshire have their own distinctive - and rural - character. The Country though, can perhaps best be experienced in the cluster of counties that are often termed 'The Heart of England'.
The exact boundaries of the 'Heartland' are hard to define, but we will settle on the swathe of largely unspoilt countryside that stretches from Oxford in the east to Bath in the west, skirting north along the Welsh border with Gloucestershire and Herefordshire, and closing the circle below Birmingham at Stratford-upon-Avon.
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This area encompasses the picturesque hills and villages of the Cotswalds, the sleepy rural expanses of Herefordshire and Worcestershire, 'Shakespeare Country' around Warwick and Stratford (Shakespearean cottage pictured), and the estates and gardens of Oxfordshire (Stourhead Estate pictured at top). This swathe of English countryside and market towns has a rich historic legacy, memorable landscapes, and enough cosy country pubs to satisfy the thirstiest traveller.
One of the best ways of exploring this region is to rent a cottage as a 'base' to explore surrounding countryside. A car is also essential in counties where hedge-lined country lanes are the norm, but driving is relatively stress-free in a comparatively car-less part of England.
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Herefordshire and Worcestershire in the west are prime counties for visiting ancient villages and market towns with their black and white shops and houses. Historic gems such as the thirteenth century Stokesay Castle (pictured) and the Dr. Seuss-like black and white farmstead at Lower Brockhampton dot the landscape. Market towns such as Hereford, Worcester, and the well-preserved medieval Ludlow are key centres of the county economies, and worth a visit in their own right.
To the south east are the rolling hills and little stone hamlets of the Cotswalds. Unchanged by the passing centuries, towns like Stow-On-The-Wold, Lower Slaughter (pictured), and Chipping Campden are chocolate box cute, all hanging baskets and medieval cottages. The winding roads, country pubs, and hedge-lined fields all add to the 'unspoiled' image, although the reality is a bit different under the pressure of the summer tourist onslaught.
Further south, the flat rural expanses of Wiltshire are well known for their profusion of ancient sites - most famous of which is Stonehenge (pictured). Perhaps even more interesting than this overrun tourist attraction are more remote sites such as the Neolithic burial mound at West Kennet and the artificial Silbury Hill. The huge stone circle that surrounds the village of Avebury is also an outstanding locale, and as it's possible to have a beer within the circle it must rate as the most hospitable heritage site in Britain.
An exploration of the 'Heart of England' wouldn't be complete without a visit to the more genteel hamlets and estates of Oxfordshire. The impressive Blenheim Palace (pictured) is probably the most spectacular of the estates, set in huge landscaped grounds and with its own lake. Villages such as Black Bournton and Burford have a well-preserved identity, and a few miles south are more reminders of ancient Britons and the communities of the distant past.
More Information
The National Trust website is a great introduction to many of England's best preserved landscapes, estates, and buildings. Membership is cheap when you consider the hundreds of locations that can be visited with a membership card - note also that the National Trust has reciprocal arrangements with other similar organisations, such as the NZ Historic Places Trust.
Our explorations of Herefordshire and Worcestershire were undertaken from a National Trust historical cottage (pictured). Over 300 of these can be hired for holidays.
The Visit Britain website provides useful general information for visits to these counties.
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