Winchester - England's Medieval Capital
One thousand years ago, Winchester rivalled London in political importance, and it was no less than Alfred the Great that made it capital of his Wessex kingdom in the ninth century. Today, the one hour train journey from London speeds you through rolling fields and small villages to the sleepy, backwater town which experienced a decline in status that is all the more marked for the meteoric rise of former rival London to world prominence.
Winchester retains vestiges of its former status, and is a handsome centre of bustling rovincial activity. The huge, squat Cathedral boasts the longest nave in Europe, and has a rich interior that belies the unprepossessing facade. Original thirteenth century tiling, a water-logged crypt, and the resting place of Jane Austen are all reasons to step inside.
Most areas of interest in Winchester radiate from the High Street, and this makes it a town easily explored on foot. At the top of the High Street, the Great Hall has a free exhibition explaining its role in history - from being partially destroyed by Cromwell's Civil War forces, the venue for one of the 'Bloody Assizes' of Judge Jeffrey's in 1685, and the location where Sir Walter Raleigh was staying when news of his death sentence was delivered. Perhaps most famously, the Great Hall is the repository for the famed Round Table of King Arthur (actually dating to the 14th century), which hangs impressively from one wall.
Down on the High Street proper, many of the shops retain their medieval pedigree, and in nearby streets there are a number of ancient pubs that have survived the good times and bad in Winchester. A few minutes walk past the Cathedral is undoubtedly the best old pub in town - the Wykeham Arms. Located at 75 Kingsgate Street, the Wykeham Arms is a treasure-trove of artifacts, tastefully strewn throughout its candlelit interior. A great place to relax and enjoy the ambience.
The River Itchen runs along the eastern edge of the town centre, its power harnessed by the City Mill. This medieval mill is now under the care of the National Trust, and has in part been converted into a youth hostel. A stroll beside the small but swiftly flowing river will take you to the ruins of the 12th century Wolvesey Castle, beyond which lies the ancient (and exclusive) Winchester College.
Getting There
Winchester is a great option for a leisurely day out from London or an overnight stay in one of the many B&B's. Several trains leave daily from London Waterloo, with a journey time of 1 hour. Buses from London take approximately twice that time.
More Information
The Tourist Office is located in the imposing Guildhall, at the end of the High Road on the Broadway. Phone 01962 840 5000.
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